Hunting and Gathering/ Singing and Laughing

On one of days with the Hadza, we were split up into groups of three wazungu and two Hadza to go out hunting. We woke up at 6 and were out hunting by 6:30, trekking over hills and through the bush to find wild game. Our guide introduced himself as "General" and he was very excited to have us hunting with him. We walked for about an hour and then all of a sudden veered off the path (okay there really wasn't much of a path but we took a turn up a rocky incline) General pointed and said, "Asali hapo" (Honey there). We were off again on a honey hunt, I still can't believe how they know where it is. He and his friend lit a fire under the tree and then smoked out the bees, climbing into a neighboring sapling and balancing on a branch the size of my arm while blowing smoke into the hive. After a few minutes he reached his entire arm into the hole, probably getting stung hundreds of times, and pulled out a comb that was over a foot long, dripping with sticky-sweet amber honey.
General broke off a few pieces and handed us the comb to snack on. Honey from the comb is now one of my favorite things, it was the sweetest freshest honey I have ever had. After our snack we continued to hike looking for game, occasionally climbing an outcrop to scout, usually with no luck.

After seeing nothing for a few more hours we took a water break while General went to scout some more. When he came back I told him in broken Swahili (I was the only one in the group who knew enough) that we were getting tired and were wondering when we were going back. He responded by asking if we wanted to go see a cave nearby... reluctantly we went with him but I am so happy we did. The cave was on the side of
a cliff, hidden from the sun and had paintings on the walls which was pretty sweet. We sat there for about half an hour in the cool shade and were asking General questions and apologizing for being loud and scaring away the animals. He responded in near perfect English. WHAT? It was hilarious all of a sudden realizing our guide knew what we were saying all along. (AKA he knows we all thought he was real handsome). It was great.
After our rest, we began our walk back to the camp. Within ten minutes we saw a dik-dik in a clearing maybe 60 yards away. General waved his hand to tell us to stop and get quiet as he was slipping off his shoes to sneak up on the mini-deer. The three of us were so excited to finally see something at the end of our trip. We waited for what seemed like forever, with the dik-dik in our sights as General creeped around the brush to get a closer shot. The deer's instinct kicked in however and it trotted away before our guide could get a shot off. Slightly bummed to not bring home the biggest prize, we continued walking home at that point not even caring we sounded like a herd of elephants walking around in the bush.


When we returned at around 2pm a few other groups were already there and we learned that one had shot a hyrax. The group named it Stephen. The Hadza were very excited to cook him up for us when the last group returned from their hunt. We quickly discovered Stephen was a girl! Better yet, a pregnant girl! With twins! *WARNING GRAPHIC CONTENT, NOT FOR THE EATERS OF RABBIT FOOD* So, as the Hadza believe that the group should benefit and share all the goods of the day the hyrax was cooked to perfection over the fire, and so were the fetuses and the rumen. Thankfully, we were only offered to try the liver and a piece of the thigh. I did not try the liver (still can't get over that one) but I did have a piece of the meat which tasted like I could survive off of it if I needed to. Slightly "gamey" but much like a lamb chop. The cultural differences were just so funny! I loved it! Nothin brings two cultures together like some bush meat.....



...Oorrrrrrr dancing! That night we all gathered around a fire and were asking the Hadza questions about land, education, culture and government. They also had their fair share of questions, especially General and the younger Hadza. They asked about the climate differences, our education system and government and healthcare. Very smart people. When the conversation was dwindling, an old woman stood up and began to sing in a powerful grandmother-willow-like voice and to bounce along with her song. Then all the other people joined her, singing and forming a circle to dance. Their feet kept the beat, stomping loud every third step. The singing and beat of pounding feet was absolutely intoxicating, I couldn't help but get up and dance. Soon everyone was dancing around the fire, stirring up dust and smoke, pounding our feet to the beat and moving faster and faster, laughing and singing along, following the lead of the mzee. After awhile, they asked us to sing a song for them, so naturally we sang "Build me up Buttercup". Then we thought we should teach them a dance.. but what dance? I suggested "Cotton-Eyed Joe" and we went with it. So, we clapped and sang along and taught the Hadzabe "Cotton-Eyed Joe". Some picked it up very fast and others did not get what we were doing bouncing around but everyone was laughing and was eager to learn our wacky dance around the light of the fire. I was so happy! I AM so happy. That was definitely in my top 5 best nights ever, I didn't want it to end!

At the end of our trip we gave group presentations and were able to be joined by Daudi Peterson, the founder of Dorobo. It was really neat to have him there to contribute to our discussion, with his deep history with the Hadzabe. We also were able to but his book about the Hadza, so I am now the owner of a signed copy of "Hadabe; By the light of a Million Fires" (It's not even on Amazon *nerdalert*) which really tells you so much about the Hadza culture and comes with a CD so be prepared when I come home to learn some groovy campfire dance moves/songs!! In all seriousness though what this NGO does for these people is incredible and credible. There are many out there that get funding for a project they know won't work but go through with it anyways because they got money from a sentimental sponsor who doesn't know the difference. Like I mentioned before Dorobo is educating people on their land rights as well as helping them maintain cultural integrity which is what the Hadzabe want. And to be able to sit and talk with the founder was awesome, we got to see his passion for what he does and get a better understanding of the people and goals.
On one of our car rides with Mama Maggie, one of the girls asked, "when was the last time you were honestly this happy?" Truly happy. Being around these people, happiness is contagious and for me, being here is absolutely incredible as it is. The beauty of simple living and being content with what you have... celebrating by sharing a meal with new friends and dancing around a campfire. Meeting powerful people who have so much to say and so much to give, seeing the wildlife and having the opportunity to LIVE it instead of tour it. Nimefurahi.

 Ishi sasa. Live now.