Amboseli

Coming down into a valley after a 4 hour drive and seeing the snowy top of Mt.Kilimanjaro peek through the clouds was a breathtaking sight, reassuring us that the next week in Amboseli was going to be a good one. On the ride there we saw an elephant in the bush as well as a family of giraffes at dusk. We arrived at camp in Amboseli just before dinner time, what we didn't know was how gorgeous this place was going to be. "Glamping" to the max. We stayed at Kibo Safari Camp in Amboseli, every morning we had a view of Mt.Kilimanjaro and every afternoon we had time to jump in the pool under acacias and palm trees..... Oh right and we did some learning in between....

The first day we were there we went and interviewed farmers in the Amboseli region. Traditionally, the land here was Maasai land, who are pastoralists but now we are seeing the Maasai selling or leasing their land to farmers of other ethnic groups for cultivation. Although the land is not great for cultivation, the farmers are able in many cases to make a profit and surprisingly, it is the Maasai land owners that actually are losing out as they don't make as much from leasing as they would from actually farming the land. We asked them questions about what they were growing, how much they yielded in a season, how much they made, what they leased the land for, etc...We asked them about water usage and who they shared the water with to which all the answered were "with the people upstream". There are many pastoralist groups downstream that need water for their herds and is running out as more and more farmers settle in the area, yet the only concern is with people upstream as those are the people who could use all 'your' water. We also were able to question them about the National Park. During the rainy season, animals will migrate from the park to the surrounding group ranches as there is plenty of water and food to be able to expand their migration routes and territories. However, outside of the park is where these farmers are and they have many problems with elephants, zebras and other ungulates ruining their crops causing much distress. When asked about the park, many of them said they had no use for it, that it was purely for tourism. Many wanted it to be fenced in so that the wildlife would stop ruining their crops, and main source of income. Even if the government stepped in to patrol an area and scare away elephants roaming through peoples shambas would help the situation. That, unfortunately, is a huge cause to some serious wildlife mismanagement and conservation issues in Kenya; the struggle between conserving wildlife and not being able to support the people that deal with the wildlife on a daily basis. It is so vital for Kenya conservationists to realize what is at stake if the people of Kenya are not involved in the wildlife, if they don't see it as an asset then protecting it will be so much harder.

Later that day we went to a cultural Manyatta which is a traditional Maasai village used for cultural tourism. Basically, all the people there live there in order to make money off of tourism and they dress up in traditional dress and show you around their "traditional" village and assure you that it's authentic. When we arrived there, they were all waiting for us outside of the village and began to sing and dance. The men have a jumping contest and the women do a shoulder dance where we all join in. Then we were shown around the village which is set up with an outer wall (boma) made from dead thorny acacia branches surrounding about 10-15 stick and dung houses almost in a circle then another boma in the center, where the cattle and sheep are kept safe at night. We learned about traditional medicine (even "Maasai manpower" to support their polygamous lifestyle) and then we all sat down with small groups and had a Q&A session. We asked about how much money they make being a part of a cultural Manyatta and who was in charge of the money. They make between 500 and 1000 ksh (6-11 USD) per tourist and during the busy season they get about 3 vans a week although the handling of the money is not always fair. They also felt as if they did not learn anything from the tourists and that they were only there to teach them about their lives, which in my personal opinion is sad. I think when you go to learn about a new culture, its important for the opportunity for cultural exchange. This trip also changed my opinions about cultural Manyattas. At first I was disappointed that a people would "sell out" their culture, but I am now seeing that it might be a great way to preserve a struggling culture in an ever changing world. That being said, people visiting these places need to be culturally sensitive and mindful of what they do, say and wear. (They also need to make sure they see their money get to the people and not only to corrupt tour drivers, but that's another discussion). I also think it should be known to tourists that this is how TRADITIONAL Maasai people live and not necessarily how ALL Maasai live today.
At the end of our trip when we were heading to the cars, there was a huge commotion and all of a sudden everyone was running up the hill, away from the cars. I asked a Maasai man what all the commotion was about, "Ndovu!". I started running to where everyone was and there was not one, but two elephants grazing in the bush. Both with huge sets of tusks. Let me tell you, you don't realize how huge an elephant it until there is one ten feet away from you on the ground. Especially when they notice you're there and stare at you. Then you not only realize how huge and powerful these gorgeous beings are, but how absolutely intelligent they are.

The next day, we went on a SAFARI in Amboseli National Park! We woke up at 6 and headed out to maximize our chances of seeing animals as they migrate in and out of the park. It worked. We saw over 30 different species of birds and mammals including some of the favorites, elephants, cheetahs, hippos and ostriches. I will make another blog post for pictures of our safari as I took over 300 of them :) get excited. We took a lunch break back at the camp and then returned to the park at 4. As the sun was setting, we were driving along the road, Mt. Kilimanjaro to the south and as if that wasn't a gorgeous sight in itself, a herd of about 50 elephants grazing to the north decided to cross the road, surrounding our car to head toward the mountain. They are incredible! So intelligent. The image of the orange glow on elephant backs with Kili in the background was so incredibly beautiful.

We also did a one night home-stay with a Maasai family. Charlotte and I stayed together with a family who owned about 60 cows and probably 60 goats and sheep as well. The Manyatta we stayed in had 3 rooms, a bedroom/kitchen, a sitting area and another bedroom. We stayed right in the dung hut on a cowhide and straw bed, right next to the kitchen. On the first night we cooked with our translator and mother then went to the field to help our father herd the livestock in for the night. I really liked herding the goats, its a new found talent of mine; goat whisperer. (Shout out to Aunt D!) So in order to maintain the right number of goats in a herd and not permanently castrate them, the billy goats have chastity belts. Basically they strap on a wooden board to their bellies that hangs down so they can't reproduce. I thought that was interesting, you needed to know. While we were out in the field, a herd of about 10 elephants was on the edge of the bush, crossing to the watering spigot, once again I was amazed at how graceful they are. After all the herding was over, we had dinner and we looked at the stars which are soooooo clear here! Then it was time for (another) cup of chai and bedtime. I thought I was going to have a horrible night's sleep on the cowhide mattress, but we both actually slept pretty well. It got pretty smoky in the hut, but there were no bugs so it was all good.
The next day, we woke up and had pancakes for breakfast, then got right to work. We fetched water in buckets which we carried like the Maasai women, on our backs with a leather strap around our foreheads. Then we did some poop smearing to repair the dung hut and got artsy. Organic. After that we had lunch and we didn't even wash our hands! (just kidding.) We collected firewood and carried it in the same manner as we did the water. Early afternoon we sat on a hide mat under an acacia tree and make jewelry with our mother and we were able to talk to our father. We asked him about his wives (he has 3, which means he is well off) and about his duties. He only has one leg and he was asking us about healthcare in America and prosthetic limbs which was just such a cool conversation to have with him. After that we said our goodbyes and thank yous and were picked up by our safari drivers. I am so grateful to be able to have all the experiences I have had before, there really is not other way to learn about this area than to just immerse yourself into it.

On Friday, we were able to interview local people about gender roles, environment, government and tourism. We learned so much from the different groups of women, elders, farmers and pastoralists. There is so much going on in the Amboseli area as Kenya continues to develop, it will be interesting to see in the next 30 years how the government handles the people in this region, the environment and how tourism continues to effect the lives of so many people here.

Saturday we just had a day off. We got to sleep in! I had a late breakfast, did some reading, got a massage, hung out by the pool for the majority of the day and ended it by laying on the pool deck looking at the stars. We saw at least 7 shooting stars. Then a huge guy from Slovenia (not Slovakia) came up to us and tried to start a conversation like this *points to stars* "Ohh you see the sunshine.." *awkward pause* "ha ha JOKE". Then we all died laughing, his friends came and jumped in the pool, had a broken conversation about safaris and that was that. So random. Anyways, Amboseli was paradise and I really can't wait to go back someday!

Pictures are coming I promise! I just wanted to get this part out, I still have to tell you about Mombasa! Keep reading!

Ferocious Love, SafariSam

Urban Homestay

Okay so I just got back form my Urban Homestay last Friday. I know I haven't posted in awhile, my apologies, but I have been so busy with school (Okay, that was kind of a joke...) and adventuring in Nairobi. So i'll do a brief recount of all the things I've been doing for the past three weeks.

I arrived to my Urban Homestay Sunday Feb, 23 and stayed with my family in South B.. or South Beach as Char and I like to call it... for about three weeks. My parents were awesome, my dad works for fire insurance and my mother is a Branch manager at a bank here in Nairobi. I have three sisters who are 17, 14 and 12 and were so much fun to hang out with! I felt very at home, joking with my family and getting picked on by my dad and sisters. We all got along very well and I had such a great time there, I am going to miss my Nairobi family so much!

Chaitea and I lived in the same area and it just so happened that our dads were best friends since school! So we got to hang out a lot together and get to know eachother's families which was nice. The first weekend we were there, our dads took us out to a soccer game for a local favorite, Gor Mahia. The stadium was packed and everyone was covered in green to support Gor. Superfans were dressed up in crazy outfits and the Tuskers were there. Halfway through the game, the radio broadcaster asked char and I to come talk on the radio which was so cool! "Whats your name?" "Samantha" "What team are you cheering for today, Samantha?" "Gor, or course!!" "How long have you been a Gor fan?" "My entire life" "Can you name a player?" "No, but I know they're the best!"
Unfortunately, Gor lost that day, but we had fun! Immediately after the game our dads took us to a sports bar so they could watch the next game on TV, crazy kids.

One of the nights my sisters and I had a dance party, there was nothing going on so we cranked up the music and danced around the room. We had such a girly night it was so nice to have sisters!!! We gave eachother makeovers and the whole shabang. Yay! We also got to go swimming at the club the next day and had a really nice day out soaking up the sun!

This homestay was very different from the rural homestay, my family here had so much more than in the rural areas. However, I learned that some traditional practices were still in place such as bridewealth. Although I don't think it is taken as seriously in the rural areas, only a practice that is maintained for the sake of tradition. Both my families were so happy though and I learned so much in each homestay, I hope that they learned as much from me as I did from them.

So I know this is a really vague and brief entry (and pictures will come later!) but I leave for Amboseli and Mombasa in 15 minutes! We will be staying with the Maasai people in Amboseli, going on safaris (finally seeing some elephants!) and learning all about the Maasai way of life. I'm Mombasa, Im not really sure what we will be doing, other than getting tan and going to the beach a ton (our resort is on the ocean!!!). We'll be visiting with local people and seeing historical sites such as Fort Jesus. I am so excited for another adventure! I'll post more when I get back!

Hippopotamuseses and Homeboyz

I just got the confirmation today that I will be heading to the Mpala research center to work on Dr. Doug McCauley's Hippo Project! I am so happy this is going to work out, mpala is an international research center in Nanyuki, Kenya and students in the past have had great experiences with interning here. I came here hoping to work with Africas famous tusker, the African Elephant but since literally everyone in the world who comes here wants to help elephants, that wasn't an available option for me. Either way, I am super pumped about heading to Mpala :)

Kevo na mimi

So all this hard work grants some time to play right? Right. This weekend my friend Charlotte and I went out to our friend's host-sister's birthday. At the birthday party, we got cake shoved into our faces.. I guess that is a thing here and I am definitely going to do that on all of my birthdays here on out. After the party we went to Mojo's, a hangout spot in the Nairobi City Center to meet up with my friend Kevin.
When we got there we were the only mzungus there and had no idea where Kev was inside and both of us were not in the best mood after walking up a pretty creepy stairwell. The second we got inside this (really attractive) guy comes up to us and asks, "Are you looking for Kevin?", "Yes, yes we are." So he takes us to where our friend is and we picked up another friend on the way who is about 6'5" and has to be at least 300lbs, Josh. Needless to say, our moods got better fast!! We were introduced to our new 'bodyguards' Leo or "Lenny" and Joshua. They played rugby with Kevin for the Homeboyz.
They also played for Kenya's 7s team last year, at the time we had no idea who these guys were but people kept coming up to them to say hi. It was hilarious, the people WE should have recognized, were the ones to recognize us.

Josh, Me, Lenny

We had so much fun!!!! They are such great guys and like most Kenyans, are very happy, and can dance! They played the best music, the perfect mix of African Beats and American music and we danced all night, it was so much fun!!!!!!!















So we bacame BFFs with Kenyan Ruggers... Check that off the bucket list.

The Hill News

Check out page ten ;) The Hill News Feb 14th

Hunting and Gathering/ Singing and Laughing

On one of days with the Hadza, we were split up into groups of three wazungu and two Hadza to go out hunting. We woke up at 6 and were out hunting by 6:30, trekking over hills and through the bush to find wild game. Our guide introduced himself as "General" and he was very excited to have us hunting with him. We walked for about an hour and then all of a sudden veered off the path (okay there really wasn't much of a path but we took a turn up a rocky incline) General pointed and said, "Asali hapo" (Honey there). We were off again on a honey hunt, I still can't believe how they know where it is. He and his friend lit a fire under the tree and then smoked out the bees, climbing into a neighboring sapling and balancing on a branch the size of my arm while blowing smoke into the hive. After a few minutes he reached his entire arm into the hole, probably getting stung hundreds of times, and pulled out a comb that was over a foot long, dripping with sticky-sweet amber honey.
General broke off a few pieces and handed us the comb to snack on. Honey from the comb is now one of my favorite things, it was the sweetest freshest honey I have ever had. After our snack we continued to hike looking for game, occasionally climbing an outcrop to scout, usually with no luck.

After seeing nothing for a few more hours we took a water break while General went to scout some more. When he came back I told him in broken Swahili (I was the only one in the group who knew enough) that we were getting tired and were wondering when we were going back. He responded by asking if we wanted to go see a cave nearby... reluctantly we went with him but I am so happy we did. The cave was on the side of
a cliff, hidden from the sun and had paintings on the walls which was pretty sweet. We sat there for about half an hour in the cool shade and were asking General questions and apologizing for being loud and scaring away the animals. He responded in near perfect English. WHAT? It was hilarious all of a sudden realizing our guide knew what we were saying all along. (AKA he knows we all thought he was real handsome). It was great.
After our rest, we began our walk back to the camp. Within ten minutes we saw a dik-dik in a clearing maybe 60 yards away. General waved his hand to tell us to stop and get quiet as he was slipping off his shoes to sneak up on the mini-deer. The three of us were so excited to finally see something at the end of our trip. We waited for what seemed like forever, with the dik-dik in our sights as General creeped around the brush to get a closer shot. The deer's instinct kicked in however and it trotted away before our guide could get a shot off. Slightly bummed to not bring home the biggest prize, we continued walking home at that point not even caring we sounded like a herd of elephants walking around in the bush.


When we returned at around 2pm a few other groups were already there and we learned that one had shot a hyrax. The group named it Stephen. The Hadza were very excited to cook him up for us when the last group returned from their hunt. We quickly discovered Stephen was a girl! Better yet, a pregnant girl! With twins! *WARNING GRAPHIC CONTENT, NOT FOR THE EATERS OF RABBIT FOOD* So, as the Hadza believe that the group should benefit and share all the goods of the day the hyrax was cooked to perfection over the fire, and so were the fetuses and the rumen. Thankfully, we were only offered to try the liver and a piece of the thigh. I did not try the liver (still can't get over that one) but I did have a piece of the meat which tasted like I could survive off of it if I needed to. Slightly "gamey" but much like a lamb chop. The cultural differences were just so funny! I loved it! Nothin brings two cultures together like some bush meat.....



...Oorrrrrrr dancing! That night we all gathered around a fire and were asking the Hadza questions about land, education, culture and government. They also had their fair share of questions, especially General and the younger Hadza. They asked about the climate differences, our education system and government and healthcare. Very smart people. When the conversation was dwindling, an old woman stood up and began to sing in a powerful grandmother-willow-like voice and to bounce along with her song. Then all the other people joined her, singing and forming a circle to dance. Their feet kept the beat, stomping loud every third step. The singing and beat of pounding feet was absolutely intoxicating, I couldn't help but get up and dance. Soon everyone was dancing around the fire, stirring up dust and smoke, pounding our feet to the beat and moving faster and faster, laughing and singing along, following the lead of the mzee. After awhile, they asked us to sing a song for them, so naturally we sang "Build me up Buttercup". Then we thought we should teach them a dance.. but what dance? I suggested "Cotton-Eyed Joe" and we went with it. So, we clapped and sang along and taught the Hadzabe "Cotton-Eyed Joe". Some picked it up very fast and others did not get what we were doing bouncing around but everyone was laughing and was eager to learn our wacky dance around the light of the fire. I was so happy! I AM so happy. That was definitely in my top 5 best nights ever, I didn't want it to end!

At the end of our trip we gave group presentations and were able to be joined by Daudi Peterson, the founder of Dorobo. It was really neat to have him there to contribute to our discussion, with his deep history with the Hadzabe. We also were able to but his book about the Hadza, so I am now the owner of a signed copy of "Hadabe; By the light of a Million Fires" (It's not even on Amazon *nerdalert*) which really tells you so much about the Hadza culture and comes with a CD so be prepared when I come home to learn some groovy campfire dance moves/songs!! In all seriousness though what this NGO does for these people is incredible and credible. There are many out there that get funding for a project they know won't work but go through with it anyways because they got money from a sentimental sponsor who doesn't know the difference. Like I mentioned before Dorobo is educating people on their land rights as well as helping them maintain cultural integrity which is what the Hadzabe want. And to be able to sit and talk with the founder was awesome, we got to see his passion for what he does and get a better understanding of the people and goals.
On one of our car rides with Mama Maggie, one of the girls asked, "when was the last time you were honestly this happy?" Truly happy. Being around these people, happiness is contagious and for me, being here is absolutely incredible as it is. The beauty of simple living and being content with what you have... celebrating by sharing a meal with new friends and dancing around a campfire. Meeting powerful people who have so much to say and so much to give, seeing the wildlife and having the opportunity to LIVE it instead of tour it. Nimefurahi.

 Ishi sasa. Live now.

Hadzabe

 So I just got back from a week in Tanzania where our group went on a safari with Dorobo Safaris (Click the link!!) which was started by Daudi Peterson and his family in the 70s. Daudi was slowly able to get to know the Hadzabe, only after they stopped hiding from him and running away. The Hadza are one of the last hunter-gatherer groups left in the world and now they only have about 10% of their original land left as other ethnic groups are moving into the area and pushing the non-confrontational Hadza off their land. The two main principles of Dorobo is helping the Hadza through land loss and to maintain cultural integrity (both objectives that the Hadza themselves want to accomplish).



My experience with Dorobo was absolutely incredible. We had three guides Killerai, Zenan, and Maggie who are all incredible people and they are so good at what they do! On the first night there we stayed at an incredible camp site with lots of trees to rest under and a gorgeous waterfall! The next morning, we woke up and hiked over into the Yaeda Valley.

We were picked up at the top by the Dorobo staff and wisked away into the bush to our first Hadza camp in Morongo (I think I'm spelling it right). This is where we met some of our Hadza guides who were just as excited to meet us as we were to meet them. We stayed here two nights and we were able to visit the Hadza camp with their thatched houses, fireplaces and grinding stones. The women invited us into the houses and told us all about them.They told us that they are able to make them in one day when they arrive at a camp and no snakes go inside because of the                                                                                           type of materials they use.

 We then went and collected tubers and honey (unexpectedly found honey, that is). As we were walking through the bush the men would whistle for Honeyguide birds. The birds whistle back and actually lead the men to where the honey is and is rewarded with the leftover wax and honey. It is so cool to see! Then the men will just reach their hands into the hive and pull out the honeycomb, Asali!! The comb was passed around for everyone to taste and it was the sweetest honey I've ever had! Digging tubers is done with pointed sticks to till up the earth and then collect the underground food source. Once all the tubers are collected, they're carried in khangas and roasted right out in the field. They taste like a sweet stringy starch, you chew on them to get all the juices out.

 Later, we sat with the men and made arrows! They can make one in five minutes, burning the wood then using their teeth to straighten the stick and carving the tip into a point. Antelope tendon is used to tie the falcon feathers on and after the basic arrow is finished, individuals add their own personal design that they carve into the arrow and use charcoal from the fire to color in. Some arrows have metal tips that have been soaked in desert rose poison for larger game.

After two nights at the first Hadza camp we packed up our things and made our way across the Great Rift Valley to the next camp. Yes, I hiked across the GREAT RIFT VALLEY. Ahhhhhhhh. It was a long muddy walk guided by a few Hadza men and by the end our feet were caked in mud and the Hadza had shot a small bird. The whole situation was hilarious and although we were walking all day in the sun, everyone was in good moods, excited to be here or just laughing at the what seemed like a never ending mud bog.

The next few days were jam packed with target practice, a question-answer session around a fire with the Hadza, hunting, and dancing and singing around a campfire. All that excitement is just way too much for one post (aaaaand my internet here wont let me load more pictures...) so keep checking in and ill have the next post soon!

Twiga Twiga!

So I have some catching up to do on my posts and I realized I never posted for Valentine's Day! It turns out I thought I would have a boring uneventful Valentines day... but then I met my Valentine!

We went to the Giraffe center in Karen and got to hang out with some of the coolest animals ever! It was so cool! I got Giraffe Kisses!

This series of pictures is me trying to woo the Giraffe.... At first he was reluctant for some lovin'.. but eventually my charm got em ;)

 

Mimi akambusu twiga.