Mombasa, a "working" vacation

So I would definitely call this part of the trip our "working" vacation. After our week in Amboseli, we set out on an 8 hour drive to Mombasa. We stayed at Jumuia resort which is right on the beach and is just as lush and green as you would imagine, dotted with coconut palms and so so sooooo hot and humid. Even at 9:00 at night you could walk outside and start sweating, good thing we had a swimming pool. Although even that was warm so you'd have to jump in then get out to cool down! Either way, I can't complain it was practically paradise.

We went to the Kaya forests and we led by Mijikenda people to their traditional religious sites. Along the way we stopped to see small monuments for the deceased and learned about the traditional beliefs of the Mijikenda. At one point we had to stop and take off our shoes for the rest of the hike and sit and rest while the ancestors "scan" us and figure out why we came there. When we continued we came across a hut where people go to pray for either the dark or the light spirits. (Not good and bad but some associate with the dark or moon and other the light or day). There, there was a fire circle of stones which I casually stepped on, then found out from the Mijikenda believe that "if a woman comes and rests on one of the fire stones, when she becomes pregnant, her child will be the weight of the stone". Greeeeeaaaaaaat. I'm adopting.






The first full day there we went into the city and we toured Fort Jesus and learned a ton about the history of the fort. It is absolutely gorgeous, being right on the water and built on a coral bed.

 This is me sitting on an ancient toilet.

Photocred: Alex Spencer










We then were able to tour old town Mombasa which was one of the prettiest areas, the roads are not wide enough for modern cars and the buildings are tall and square sandstone with intricate doors and windows.
The next day we interviewed the Mijikenda people who are agriculturalists in the forests of Mombasa and have deep spiritual roots in the forest. We got to talk to them about land issues, tourism, womens rights and current politics and issues going on in Mombasa. Then we went and toured biashara street... "biashara" means "store" in kiswahili. We did some shopping and then we had lunch downtown.
The next day we did a similar thing only interviewed the Swahili people who are Muslim people of the coast with Arabic roots (way back in history when they intermingled). We talked to them about what it means to be a Swahili as there is much debate over a final definition as coastal people have been intermingling with people from all over the world for centuries. It was also interesting to hear their point of view on women's rights and what the future implications for their culture are, including not being represented well in government. The coast is going to have issues with this in the future if they continue to be underrepresented in government.

Each day we were back to the hotel by 5 and were able to go swimming and walk on the beach in the afternoons. There was also a Christian Conference going on at the resort while we wee there and some of the guys from it would always be playing water polo when we got back. The boys on our program wanted to play them and so I thought being the goalie would be fun. We shut them out. It was fun. USA water polo team here we come! We played them a few days in a row and then I became known as "goalie" by the other team, even when they saw us walking around the resort. Yep.

One thing that is so in your face on the beach is the amount of beach boys selling things on the beach to tourists. They will follow you down the coast and ask you to "promote them" and help them. I have a high tolerance for being chirped, but it does get annoying at times when you just want to relax on the beach. Many of the beach boys as they are referred to are Swahilli people who did not continue with school and could not find a job. They will as you to sponsor them to start a business or to bring them to America, or even tell you they love you and they'll always be by your side. To which my response was talking about Microfinance and furthering education.

On the last night in Mombasa we went on a dinner cruise! While we were waiting for the bus to come get us, we were sitting on the beach when in the distance a guy leading a white horse is spotted coming toward us. Immediately I turned to my friend and said, "I'm riding that horse.". I asked the guy if I could just ride for 5 minutes in a circle on the beach and he asked me to pay him 100bob. Which was crazy. So I told him I wanted to do it for free and that I miss riding back at home... finally he let me ride and it was so fun! I really do miss it. Anyways, it was magical. White horse on the beach in Mombasa. (PS I ended up giving him 50bob when I got off, hakuna matata).

 

Then we went on our dinner cruise through old town Mombasa, past the fort and under the stars! Steak and shrimp cooked to perfection. The boat was absolutely gorgeous, we really are spoiled. After our 4 course meals, we got up and went to the lower deck for some dancing to live music, even Daktari Sinnary and Mzee Njau busted a move or two!